12-12-11
There’s an art to riding a bus in El Salvador, and it’s taken me almost two years to learn and catalogue all its subtle complexities. The trick is in finding the proper bus stance and fighting to maintain it. In order to do this, you may or may not have to nudge, shove, and coerce little old ladies and small children into giving you your space. Know that this level of ruthlessness is not only right and proper, but absolutely necessary. Trust me; they have zero compunction about nudging, shoving, and coercing you out of your careful placement. It’s survival of the fittest, and they’ll exploit your American-bred need to be polite. Don’t be fooled by their sweet faces and small stature; usually, the Salvadoran señoras are the fiercest bus warriors around.
If you ever do find yourself boarding a bus in the campo, remember, it’s best to board first. There likely won’t be any seats left to fight for, but you’ll want to get yourself in the best position possible. First, as always, beware elderly señoras and small bichos (little kids). As you stand in line to get on the bus, there’ll be a great surge forward, and the bichos will make their move, zipping in under your arms and in front of you before you can say, ¡puchica! Then the señoras will move in, shoving arms, legs, bags, and anything else they can think of in front of you to secure their position. In the both these cases, despite your superior strength, you’re in the weaker position. Who wants to knock down an old lady? Do your best to nudge them out using your hips. Don’t be afraid to use your superior reach to get ahold of the door handle in front of them so they’re forced to step behind. There’s not much you can do about the bichos. They’re fast little buggers.
Once on the bus, squeeze past the crowds of Salvadorans thronging the aisle at the front and work your way to the middle. As a rule, Salvadorans want to get off the bus as fast as they got on, so they’ll find positions in the front and cling to them, despite how much easier it would be for them to move down the aisle. Know you’ll need some fancy footwork to hop over them, but trust me, it’s worth it.
When you reach the less-crowded middle of the bus, you’ll want to assume a wide stance, feet at least 12 inches apart. (This space will slowly disappear as the bus fills up; do all you can to maintain it.) Face a seat and brace your arms on the back of two seats in front of you. Yes, I know this will put your crotch uncomfortably close to the person sitting in the seat. Deal. They’re used to it. Don’t give in to the temptation to grab the bars hanging from the ceiling; your arms will be killing you after five minutes of unpaved road. You may be forced into using the bars eventually, but don’t go willingly.
Now you know the best position for Salvadoran bus riding. But stay alert, because thanks to a number of factors, you may unwittingly be forced into one of the following stances:
“The Pink Flamingo”
The Pink Flamingo is an unpleasant position that one is forced into when they make the mistake of removing a foot from the floor of a crowded bus. While the cobrador (fare collector) squeezes by to collect money, it may be tempting to move your foot to give him a place to step as he passes you. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT give into this classic pitfall. Once your foot is lifted, a señora or bicho WILL move their foot into the space to better widen their own stance. (They’re pros, these guys.) And you’ll be left with one leg up, one leg down, praying that the bus crashes so the resulting jolt will give you a chance to get some more space. Please know that if you’re not one of those pink-feathered fowl, the Pink Flamingo is NOT comfortable.
“The Puppet”
This is what happens when you lose your grip on the back of seats. As the bus crowds, your stance narrows, and increasing amounts of people will also attempt to brace themselves on the seat backs. As the tallest person on the bus (possibly the country), you’ll be the one forced to raise your arms to the ceiling bars, as the majority of señoras and bichos can’t reach them. As your stance narrows, you’ll be unable to brace yourself against the roads pitfalls with either your feet or arms. You’ll be left dangling from the bus ceiling like a puppet on strings, subject to every winding curve and giant pothole the bus drives into. Your arms will be numb in a matter of minutes.
“The Personal Space Invader”
As Americans, we like our space, especially when it comes to touching strangers on public transport. Well, you better kiss your personal bubble goodbye, because it’s about to be violated. As the bus becomes increasingly crowded, people start standing three and four deep in a bus aisle that’s about 18 inches wide. While you may be able to find enough room for your feet, this will force your bulkier upper body to lean increasingly closer to the person seated in front of you. Eventually, the whole front of your body will be pressed against theirs like you wanna make a baby with them. Uncomfortable? Yes. Avoidable? Not particularly.
“The Sardine”
This is a position you’ll mostly encounter on market days or during fiestas patronales, when the buses are packed tighter than a clown car. During this phenomenon, your feet will rapidly lose their stance until they’re side by side, and there’ll be so little space you can’t even reach up to the ceiling bars. In this case, you lose all ability to brace yourself for the inevitable impact of a bus crash. Fortunately, you won’t need to. The sheer press of people around you will keep you upright, packed in like a sardine. Aside from the ever constant danger of tiny pickpockets, this isn’t the worst stance to be in. At least you can keep yourself vertical in this one.
“The Gringo Privilege Seat”
On rare occasions, someone will see you and think, “Poor gringo. All by themselves in El Salvador. Probably lost. I should give them my seat.” While this is rare, it does happen. Be warned though, while apparently fortuitous, this position has its drawbacks. You’ll likely be forced to answer endless personal questions about yourself by the person who gave up their seat to you, and is now looming over you in the guise of The Personal Space Invader. Also, having a seat can lead to the final position on my list.
“The Pack Mule” also known as “The Babysitter”
Once you have a seat, your lap is open territory. Salvadorans will hand you bags, packs, bundles, chickens, and small children to carry. If someone hands you a baby, don’t panic. They don’t want you to keep it. They just want you to hang onto it for the duration, so they can use their now free arms to brace themselves. Getting out of this one is simple, but requires you to give your seat up to the mom. In this case, you have to weigh your desire not to be squished in between those two bolos standing up against the nervous tic that small children and yappy dogs give you. Best of luck, my friend.
Now, go forth, visit El Salvador, ride the buses. Try not to get robbed. And above all else – beware the bicho!